Van Cleef & Arpels highlights the ancient Japanese heritage through its most beautiful masterpieces throughout history

From about 1200 years ago until the return of the Meiji dynasty to rule in 1868, Kyoto was the capital of Japan. Although the city went through periods of prosperity and decline, it gradually developed into an elegant community centered on culture.
Since the beginning of the Heian dynasty in 794, the city has attracted people and objects of all kinds and produced a range of high-quality items related to food, clothing, and homes. In the field of apparel, for example, luxurious garments decorated with gold embroideries were designed such as gonitehoei (a twelve-layer garment), kosuda (short-sleeved kimono), and tsujigahana (a technique of tanning fabrics using live images and flowers) as well as noh stage costumes. With the spread of various distinct crafts in the region, including textile weaving and dyeing (an industry that continues to flourish as we see with Nishijin textiles), Kyoto was able to meet various needs thanks to the skills and spirit of its experienced craftsmen.

In this sense, Van Cleef & Arpels and Kyoto share a similar legacy in that in both cases, highly skilled artisans passed on the mysteries of their art to the generations that followed them. It would not be an exaggeration to say that this process is a common aspect of the various human races and transcends the geographical and historical framework. Indeed, this is what inspired the existing exhibition, which sheds light on “Superior Craftsmanship”. We anticipate that the exhibition will create a new framework and create a unique link between luxury jewellery, the most famous example of French skill, and traditional Japanese craftsmanship dating back more than 1200 years. We hope that this exhibition will testify to the spirit of cultural exchange and friendship between France and Japan, particularly between Paris and Kyoto.
1 - The Mermaid's Soul of Beauty Buckle, 1941
2 - Model of the Varona ship, circa 1907
3 - “Pampilles” earrings, 1923
4 - A bird cage, 1935
5 - Art Deco brooch, circa 1930
6 - Fuchsia Flower Clip, 1968

Here we give an overview of the most prominent stations in the history of Van Cleef & Arpels, from the founding of the house in 1906 to the present day.

Van Cleef & Arpels is one of the most famous French jewelry houses known for its unique style and distinctive techniques. In 1895, Alfred Van Cleef, son of a gem technician, married Esther (Estelle) Arpels, the daughter of a gem dealer. In 1906, the Van Cleef & Arpels jewelry house was founded in Place Vendôme in the heart of Paris.

In 1925, the Van Cleef & Arpels pink bracelet was awarded the Grand Prix at the International Exhibition of Modern Industry and Decorative Arts in Paris and made the house world-famous. In the XNUMXs, Van Cleef & Arpels launched the Minaudiere, an elegant night bag and patented the Mystery set, a unique technique that allows gem-setting to be set while completely concealing its metal frame. This technique was perfected by master craftsmen with golden hands (Mains d'or). Since then, Van Cleef & Arpels has developed a range of works stemming from the spirit of the House, including the Zip necklace and the Alhambra collection. The Prince of Monaco, Rainier III, presented Grace Kelly with a piece of pearls and diamonds as their wedding gift, making Van Cleef & Arpels the favorite jewelry house of the Principality of Monaco. Loaded with dreams and sensuality, the Maison's jewels and watches have attracted a wide range of global clients that include members of royal families and celebrities.
Van Cleef & Arpels maintains an archive of its most valuable works, reflecting a rich and diverse design style that has been the result of a number of historical events. Most of them were produced in the Maison's studios between the XNUMXs and XNUMXs. Most of the pieces displayed in the exhibition are from these collections.
* First Van Cleef & Arpels store at 22 Place Vendome, Paris, 1906 @Van Cleef & Arpels
* Alfred Van Cleef and Esther Arpels, founders of the house, on their wedding day in 1895. @Van Cleef & Arpels
7 - Double dragonfly brooch, 1926
8 - Cosmetic bag in the form of a wrap, circa 1925
9 - Art Deco brooch, 1930
10 - Bird's brooch, 1924
11 - Floating ribbon brooch, 1937
12 - The Spanish Ballerina Clip, 1941

In Japan, some handmade pieces are touted as the best example of superior craftsmanship. It falls under the category of general crafts. But unlike what is called applied art in the West, it takes on an important and exotic Japanese tint and is just as prized as works of fine art. In addition to the aforementioned pieces of clothing, which are rich in gold embroidery, they also include pieces such as maki (a technique of lacquering ornate vessels rich in golden images with lacquer), ceramics and metal pieces.
Just like Japanese crafts, Van Cleef & Arpels' jewelry is truly a treasure made by the hands of people described in Japan as Living National Treasures (or, more correctly, "Important Intangible Cultural Properties"). During the modern era, especially the Meiji era (1868-1912), Japanese craftsmen who focused on pioneering ideas emerged and gained fame as independent artists. Whereas, Van Cleef & Arpels has always been keen to offer "collaborative" pieces that include multiple styles in its studio. It is astonishing to see that the manufacturing methods that were prevalent in Japan hundreds of years ago are still used today.
In the second section, visitors are encouraged to compare about 100 fine jewelry pieces that combine diverse materials and display various artistic skills that make them among the best superior crafts. It is displayed alongside 50 Japanese craftsmanship of the same level of craftsmanship, including cloisonné enamel, ceramics, painted bowls and metal parts.

13 - Vine Leaf Clip, 1951
14 - The Dragon Clip, 1969
15 - The Three Birds Clip, 1946
16 - Bird's clasp and pendant, 1971-1972
17 - Indian Design Inspired Necklace, 1971
18 - “Barqueroles” collar necklace, 1971

While the exhibition highlights the superior craftsmanship of the arts, we believe that presenting a mixture of works that are an exceptional example of French and Japanese techniques will create a new perspective. By displaying a selection of superior works of fine jewelry and Japanese craftsmanship, we are confident of reaching the highest levels of cultural exchange and blending between France and Japan.

In addition to Van Cleef & Arpels' Fine Jewelery creations, we present works by contemporary Japanese artisans such as Moriguchi Kunihiko, a living national treasure in yozen dyeing; Kimura Takeshi is the holder of the title of Important Intangible Cultural Properties in the Fabric of Ra and Tatenishiki; Nakagawa Kyotogo, Holder of Important Intangible Cultural Properties in the Field of Traditional Wooden Handicrafts; and lacquer artist Hattori Shunshu and ceramic artist Miwa Kiyosetsu XII (Miyawa Ryosaku). Some special joint works will be on display, featuring elements from both world class luxury jewelry and Japanese artisans.

1 - Container with pomegranate fruit and cicada, by Xiaomi Katsuyoshi, metal artwork, end of the XNUMXth century (Meiji era)
2 - Persimmon, indo rokuzan, carved in ivory, early XNUMXth century (Taisho-Shua era)
3- Embroidered fresco with wisteria tree and peacock, unknown, circa 1905
4 - Openwork bowl with the most famous scenes of Kyoto, Hasegawa IV, ceramics, late XNUMXth century - early XNUMXth century (Meiji-tacho era)
5 - Plate with Lotus Leaf and Frog, by Xiaomi Katsuyoshi, metal artwork, late XNUMXth century (Meiji era)
6 - Vase with butterflies and flowers in an arabesque style, Namikawa Yasuyuki, enamel “Cloissonne” technique, late XNUMXth century (Meiji era)

3. A meeting of cultures and the future
7 - Light blue “Ra” silk fabric, Kitamura Takeshi, Textiles, 2005
8 - Vase with butterflies and flowers, Kinkuzan VII Sobi, late XNUMXth century - early XNUMXth century (Meiji-Tacho era)
9 - Incense container with Princess Tree (Bolvinian) designs by Hattori Shunshū, lacquer, 2014
10 - Kunihiko Moriguchi's Snow Dance (Yukimai), Yuzen dyeing, 2016, private collection
11- Vase decorated with a wisteria tree, Namikawa Yasuyuki, in croissants, late nineteenth century - early twentieth century (Meiji-tacho era)
12 - Bowl with carp, by Xiaomi Katsuyoshi, metal artwork, late XNUMXth century (Meiji era)

Su Fujimoto revealed that Van Cleef & Arpels will display a myriad of its unique charms that follow the traditions of the House, as well as materials, techniques, mechanisms and how to balance nature, craftsmanship, meticulous detail, craftsmanship and aesthetics, alongside Japanese craftsmanship creations in Kyoto.
In order to achieve the highest levels of harmony between the two styles, she developed a design space that is simple, calm, yet thoughtful and rich at the same time. In the first section of the exhibition dedicated to the history of the house, hinoki cypress is used to create a dynamic yet subtle and serene space. In the section that houses the collection of Japanese craftsmen and jewelry, the weight of the transparent display cabinets leads to an atmosphere of subtle serenity, drawing a fascinating parallel between sharpness and flexibility, between simplicity and diversity.

Sou Fujimoto was born in Hokkaido in 1971. After graduating from the Department of Architecture at the University of Tokyo School of Engineering, he founded Sou Fujimoto Architects in 2000. His work “Mel Arbor” or A Thousand Trees in 2016 won first prize among 23 Websites that participated in the French competition “Reinvent Paris Reinventer”. Paris” after his success after being invited to the international competition for the new educational center of the Polytechnic Institute in Paris-Saclay in 2015, and the international competition for the second exceptional building in Montpellier; It should also be noted that in 2014, the Hungarian Legie Budapest House of Music presented him with the Wall Street Journal Architectural Innovation Award.
In 2013, he was the youngest architect to receive an invitation to design the annual summer pavilion for the Serpentine Gallery in London. In 2012, he participated in the exhibition of the Japanese Pavilion during the International Exhibition of Architecture - “La Biennale di Venezia”, which won the “Golden Lion for Best National Participation” award.
Among several other awards, he won first prize in the international competition “Taiwan Tower” and “Beton Hala Aquatic Center” in 2011, in addition to the grand prize of “IR Awards 2006” (for the Children’s Center for Psychological Rehabilitation). Among his most important works, we mention “Serpentine Gallery Pavilion 2013” ​​(2013), “House NA” (2011), “Musashino University Art Library and Museum” (2010), “Final Wooden House” (2008) and “House N” 2008.