Van Cleef & Arpels qhia txog cov cuab yeej cuab tam Japanese thaum ub los ntawm nws cov txuj ci zoo nkauj tshaj plaws thoob plaws hauv keeb kwm

Txij li 1200 xyoo dhau los mus txog rau thaum Meiji dynasty rov qab los kav xyoo 1868, Kyoto yog lub nroog Nyij Pooj. Txawm hais tias lub nroog tau dhau los ntawm lub sijhawm muaj kev vam meej thiab poob qis, nws maj mam txhim kho mus rau hauv lub zej zog muaj kuab heev nyob rau hauv kab lis kev cai.
Txij li thaum pib ntawm Heian dynasty xyoo 794, lub nroog tau nyiam cov neeg thiab cov khoom ntawm txhua yam thiab tsim ntau yam khoom zoo uas muaj feem xyuam nrog zaub mov, khaub ncaws, thiab tsev. Piv txwv li, nyob rau hauv lub tshav pob ntawm khaub ncaws, luxurious garments dai kom zoo nkauj nrog kub embroideries tau tsim xws li gonitehoei (ib kaum ob-txheej tsoos tsho), kosuda (lub tes tsho luv kimono), thiab tsujigahana (txoj kev ntawm tanning fabrics siv nyob dluab thiab paj). Nrog rau kev nthuav dav ntawm ntau yam khoom siv tes ua hauv cheeb tsam, suav nrog textile weaving thiab dyeing (kev lag luam uas txuas ntxiv vam meej raws li peb pom nrog Nishijin textiles), Kyoto muaj peev xwm ua tau raws li ntau yam kev xav tau ua tsaug rau kev txawj ntse thiab ntsuj plig ntawm nws tej craftsmen.

Hauv qhov kev nkag siab no, Van Cleef & Arpels thiab Kyoto qhia cov keeb kwm zoo sib xws nyob rau hauv ob qho tib si, cov kws txawj ntse tau dhau los ntawm lawv cov txuj ci tsis paub meej rau ntau tiam neeg uas ua raws lawv. Nws yuav tsis yog ib qho exaggeration hais tias cov txheej txheem no yog ib qho ntawm ntau yam ntawm tib neeg haiv neeg thiab hla lub geographical thiab keeb kwm moj khaum. Tseeb tiag, qhov no yog dab tsi tshwm sim rau qhov kev nthuav qhia uas twb muaj lawm qhia txog "kev ua haujlwm zoo tshaj plaws". Peb cia siab tias qhov kev nthuav qhia yuav tsim lub hauv paus tshiab thiab tsim kom muaj kev sib txuas tshwj xeeb ntawm cov khoom kim heev jewellery, tus piv txwv nto moo tshaj plaws ntawm Fabkis txoj kev txawj ntse, thiab tsoos Japanese craftsmanship yos rov qab ntau tshaj 1200 xyoo. Peb cia siab tias qhov kev nthuav qhia no yuav ua tim khawv rau tus ntsuj plig ntawm kev sib pauv kev coj noj coj ua thiab kev phooj ywg ntawm Fabkis thiab Nyij Pooj, tshwj xeeb ntawm Paris thiab Kyoto.
1 - Tus Mermaid's Soul of Beauty Buckle, 1941
2 - Qauv ntawm Varona nkoj, kwv yees li 1907
3 - “Pampilles” tsej, 1923
4 – Cage of a Bird, 1935
5 - Art Deco brooch, kwv yees xyoo 1930
6 - Fuchsia Paj Clip, 1968

Ntawm no peb muab cov ntsiab lus ntawm cov chaw tseem ceeb tshaj plaws hauv keeb kwm ntawm Van Cleef & Arpels, los ntawm kev tsim lub tsev xyoo 1906 txog rau niaj hnub no.

Van Cleef & Arpels yog ib lub tsev nto moo tshaj plaws hauv Fabkis cov hniav nyiaj hniav kub paub txog nws cov style tshwj xeeb thiab cov txuj ci tshwj xeeb. Xyoo 1895, Alfred Van Cleef, tus tub ntawm tus kws tshaj lij lub pov haum, tau sib yuav Esther (Estelle) Arpels, tus ntxhais ntawm lub pov haum muag khoom. Xyoo 1906, Van Cleef & Arpels cov hniav nyiaj hniav kub lub tsev tau tsim nyob rau hauv Place Vendôme hauv plawv Paris.

Xyoo 1925, Van Cleef & Arpels pink bracelet tau txais txiaj ntsig Grand Prix ntawm International Exhibition of Modern Industry thiab Decorative Arts hauv Paris thiab ua rau lub tsev muaj koob npe nrov hauv ntiaj teb. Nyob rau xyoo XNUMX, Van Cleef & Arpels tau tsim lub Minaudiere, lub hnab zoo nkauj hmo ntuj thiab patented Mystery teeb, ib qho tshwj xeeb uas tso cai rau lub pov haum teeb tsa thaum zais tag nrho nws cov thav duab hlau. Cov txheej txheem no tau ua tiav los ntawm cov kws tshaj lij craftsmen nrog golden txhais tes (Mains d'or). Txij thaum ntawd los, Van Cleef & Arpels tau tsim ntau yam haujlwm los ntawm tus ntsuj plig ntawm Lub Tsev, suav nrog Zip necklace thiab Alhambra sau. Tus Tub Vaj Ntxwv ntawm Monaco, Rainier III, tau nthuav tawm Grace Kelly nrog ib daim hlaws thiab pob zeb diamond ua lawv cov khoom plig tshoob, ua rau Van Cleef & Arpels nyiam cov hniav nyiaj hniav kub lub tsev ntawm Thawj Tswj Hwm ntawm Monaco. Loaded nrog kev npau suav thiab sensuality, Maison lub jewels thiab watches tau nyiam ntau yam ntawm cov neeg siv khoom thoob ntiaj teb uas suav nrog cov tswv cuab ntawm tsev neeg muaj koob muaj npe thiab cov neeg muaj koob muaj npe.
Van Cleef & Arpels khaws cov ntaub ntawv ntawm nws cov haujlwm tseem ceeb tshaj plaws, xav txog kev nplua nuj thiab ntau haiv neeg tsim qauv uas tau tshwm sim los ntawm ntau yam xwm txheej keeb kwm. Feem ntau ntawm lawv tau tsim nyob rau hauv Maison's studios ntawm xyoo XNUMX thiab XNUMXs. Feem ntau ntawm cov khoom tso tawm nyob rau hauv lub exhibition yog los ntawm cov collections.
* Thawj Van Cleef & Arpels khw ntawm 22 Qhov Chaw Vendôme, Paris, 1906 @Van Cleef & Arpels
* Alfred Van Cleef thiab Esther Arpels, tus tsim ntawm lub tsev, ntawm lawv hnub tshoob hauv 1895. @Van Cleef & Arpels
7 - Ob leeg zaj npauj npaim, 1926
8 - Lub hnab ntim tshuaj pleev ib ce nyob rau hauv daim ntawv ntawm ib lub hnab, circa 1925
9 - Art Deco brooch, 1930
10 - Noog's brooch, 1924
11 - Floating ribbon brooch, 1937
12 - Spanish Ballerina Clip, 1941

Hauv Nyij Pooj, qee cov khoom xuas tes ua yog touted ua piv txwv zoo tshaj plaws ntawm kev ua haujlwm zoo tshaj plaws. Nws poob rau hauv qeb ntawm cov khoom siv tes ua dav dav. Tab sis tsis zoo li dab tsi yog hu ua kos duab nyob rau sab hnub poob, nws yuav siv sij hawm ib qho tseem ceeb thiab txawv Japanese tint thiab yog ib qho khoom plig zoo li cov duab zoo nkauj. Ntxiv rau cov khaub ncaws uas tau hais tseg saum toj no, uas muaj cov paj ntaub kub kub, lawv kuj suav nrog cov khoom xws li maki (cov txheej txheem ntawm lacquering ornate hlab ntsha nplua nuj nyob rau hauv cov duab kub nrog lacquer), ceramics thiab hlau daim.
Ib yam li Japanese crafts, Van Cleef & Arpels 'jewels yog tiag tiag cov khoom muaj nqis los ntawm txhais tes ntawm cov neeg piav nyob rau hauv Nyiv raws li nyob rau hauv National Treasures (los yog, ntau yog, "Ib qho tseem ceeb Intangible Cultural Properties"). Thaum lub sij hawm niaj hnub no, tshwj xeeb tshaj yog Meiji era (1868-1912), Japanese craftsmen uas tsom mus rau pioneering tswv yim tshwm sim thiab tau koob meej raws li ib tug neeg ua yeeb yam ywj siab. Txawm li cas los xij, Van Cleef & Arpels yeej ib txwm xav muab "kev sib koom tes" cov khoom uas suav nrog ntau yam hauv nws lub studio. Nws yog qhov xav tsis thoob uas pom tias cov txheej txheem tsim khoom uas tau nthuav dav hauv Nyij Pooj ntau pua xyoo dhau los tseem siv niaj hnub no.
Hauv ntu thib ob, cov neeg tuaj saib tau raug txhawb kom sib piv txog 100 cov hniav nyiaj hniav kub zoo nkauj uas sib xyaw cov khoom sib txawv thiab nthuav tawm ntau yam txuj ci uas ua rau lawv ntawm cov khoom siv tes ua zoo tshaj plaws. Nws tau nthuav tawm nrog 50 Japanese craftsmanship ntawm tib theem ntawm craftsmanship, nrog rau cloisonné enamel, ceramics, pleev xim rau tais thiab hlau qhov chaw.

13 - Vine Leaf Clip, 1951
14 - Zaj Clip, 1969
15 - Peb Cov Noog Clip, 1946
16 - Noog caj pas thiab pendant, 1971-1972
17 - Indian Design Inspired Necklace, 1971
18 - "Barqueroles" dab tshos caj dab, 1971

Thaum lub rooj nthuav qhia qhia txog kev ua haujlwm zoo tshaj plaws ntawm kev ua yeeb yam, peb ntseeg tias kev nthuav qhia kev sib xyaw ua haujlwm uas yog ib qho piv txwv tshwj xeeb ntawm Fabkis thiab Nyij Pooj cov tswv yim yuav tsim qhov kev xav tshiab. Los ntawm kev nthuav tawm cov kev xaiv zoo tshaj plaws ntawm cov hniav nyiaj hniav kub zoo thiab cov khoom siv tes ua Japanese, peb ntseeg siab txog kev sib pauv kev coj noj coj ua thiab kev sib xyaw ntawm Fabkis thiab Nyij Pooj.

Ntxiv rau Van Cleef & Arpels 'Fine Jewellery creations, peb nthuav tawm tej hauj lwm los ntawm niaj hnub Japanese artisans xws li Moriguchi Kunihiko, lub teb chaws cov khoom muaj nqis nyob rau hauv yozen dyeing; Kimura Takeshi yog tus tuav lub npe ntawm Cov Khoom Tseem Ceeb Ntawm Cov Khoom Siv Khoom Siv Hauv Cov Npuag ntawm Ra thiab Tatenishiki; Nakagawa Kyotogo, Tus tuav ntawm qhov tseem ceeb Intangible Cultural Properties in the Field of Traditional Wooden Handicrafts; thiab lacquer artist Hattori Shunshū thiab ceramic artist Miwa Kiyosetsu XII (Miyawa Ryosaku). Qee qhov kev sib koom ua haujlwm tshwj xeeb yuav raug tso tawm, muaj cov ntsiab lus los ntawm cov khoom kim heev hauv ntiaj teb thiab cov neeg txawj ntse Japanese.

1 - Ntim nrog pomegranate txiv hmab txiv ntoo thiab cicada, los ntawm Xiaomi Katsuyoshi, hlau artwork, kawg ntawm lub xyoo pua XNUMXth (Meiji era)
2 - Persimmon, indo rokuzan, ivory engraving, thaum ntxov xyoo pua XNUMXth (Taisho-Shua era)
3- Embroidered fresco nrog wisteria ntoo thiab peacock, tsis paub, circa 1905
4 - Openwork lub tais nrog lub npe nrov tshaj plaws ntawm Kyoto, Hasegawa IV, ceramics, lig xyoo pua XNUMXth - thaum ntxov xyoo pua XNUMXth (Meiji-tacho era)
5 - Phaj nrog Lotus Nplooj thiab Qav, los ntawm Xiaomi Katsuyoshi, hlau artwork, lig xyoo pua XNUMXth (Meiji era)
6 - Vase nrog npauj npaim thiab paj nyob rau hauv cov style arabesque, Namikawa Yasuyuki, enamel "Cloissonne" txheej txheem, lig XNUMXth caug xyoo (Meiji era)

3. Lub rooj sib tham ntawm kab lis kev cai thiab yav tom ntej
7 - Lub teeb xiav "Ra" silk ntaub, Kitamura Takeshi, Textiles, 2005
8 - Vase nrog npauj npaim thiab paj, Kinkuzan VII Sobi, lig xyoo pua XNUMXth - thaum ntxov xyoo pua XNUMXth (Meiji-Tacho era)
9 - Cov thawv ntim nrog Ntxhais fuabtais Tsob Ntoo (Bolvinian) tsim los ntawm Hattori Shunshū, lacquer, 2014
10 - Kunihiko Moriguchi's Snow Dance (Yukimai), Yuzen dyeing, 2016, private collection
11- Vase dai kom zoo nkauj nrog tsob ntoo wisteria, Namikawa Yasuyuki, hauv croissants, lig xyoo pua XNUMXth - thaum ntxov xyoo pua nees nkaum (Meiji-tacho era)
12 - Lub tais nrog carp, los ntawm Xiaomi Katsuyoshi, hlau artwork, lig xyoo pua XNUMXth (Meiji era)

Su Fujimoto tau tshaj tawm tias Van Cleef & Arpels yuav nthuav tawm ntau yam ntawm nws qhov tshwj xeeb ntxim nyiam uas ua raws li kev coj noj coj ua ntawm Lub Tsev, nrog rau cov ntaub ntawv, cov txheej txheem, cov txheej txheem thiab yuav ua li cas sib npaug ntawm xwm, kev ua haujlwm zoo nkauj, kev nthuav dav, kev ua haujlwm zoo nkauj thiab kev zoo nkauj, nrog rau Japanese craftsmanship. creations nyob rau hauv Kyoto.
Txhawm rau kom ua tiav qhov siab tshaj plaws ntawm kev sib haum xeeb ntawm ob qho tib si, nws tau tsim qhov chaw tsim qauv uas yooj yim, nyob twj ywm, tsis tau xav thiab nplua nuj nyob rau tib lub sijhawm. Nyob rau hauv thawj seem ntawm lub exhibition nplooj siab rau keeb kwm ntawm lub tsev, hinoki cypress yog siv los tsim ib tug dynamic tsis tau hloov maj mam thiab serene qhov chaw. Nyob rau hauv seem uas yog lub tsev sau los ntawm Japanese craftsmen thiab cov hniav nyiaj hniav kub, qhov hnyav ntawm lub pob tshab zaub txee ua rau ib qho chaw ntawm maj mam serenity, kos ib tug fascinating parallel ntawm sharpness thiab yooj, ntawm simplicity thiab ntau haiv neeg.

Sou Fujimoto yug hauv Hokkaido xyoo 1971. Tom qab kawm tiav Department of Architecture ntawm University of Tokyo School of Engineering, nws nrhiav tau Sou Fujimoto Architects hauv 2000. Nws txoj haujlwm "Mel Arbor" lossis Ib Txhiab Ntoo hauv 2016 yeej thawj khoom plig ntawm 23. Cov vev xaib uas koom nrog kev sib tw Fabkis "Reinvent Paris Reinventer". Paris” tom qab nws ua tiav tom qab raug caw tuaj koom kev sib tw thoob ntiaj teb rau lub chaw kawm tshiab ntawm Polytechnic Institute hauv Paris-Saclay hauv 2015, thiab kev sib tw thoob ntiaj teb rau lub tsev tshwj xeeb thib ob hauv Montpellier; Nws tseem yuav tsum tau muab sau tseg tias nyob rau hauv 2014, lub Hungarian Legie Budapest Lub Tsev ntawm Suab paj nruag tau nthuav qhia nws nrog Wall Street Journal Architectural Innovation Award.
Xyoo 2013, nws yog tus kws tsim vaj tsev yau tshaj plaws uas tau txais kev caw los tsim lub xyoo tshiab lub caij ntuj sov pavilion rau Serpentine Gallery hauv London. Nyob rau hauv 2012, nws tau koom nyob rau hauv lub exhibition ntawm lub Japanese Pavilion nyob rau hauv lub International Exhibition ntawm Architecture - "La Biennale di Venezia", ​​uas yeej "Golden tsov ntxhuav rau qhov zoo tshaj plaws National koom tes" khoom plig.
Ntawm ob peb lwm yam khoom plig, nws yeej thawj qhov khoom plig hauv kev sib tw thoob ntiaj teb "Taiwan Tower" thiab "Beton Hala Aquatic Center" hauv 2011, ntxiv rau qhov khoom plig loj ntawm "IR Awards 2006" (rau Lub Chaw Rau Cov Menyuam Yaus Lub Tsev Rau Kev Puas Siab Puas Ntsws). Ntawm nws cov haujlwm tseem ceeb tshaj plaws, peb hais txog "Serpentine Gallery Pavilion 2013" ​​(2013), "Lub Tsev NA" (2011), "Musashino University Art Library thiab Museum" (2010), "Final Wooden House" (2008) thiab " House N” 2008.