Shalimar, nyaya yebudiriro yekunhuhwirira kwakare kubva kuGuerlain

Shalimar perfume iperfume isingawanzo wanikwa inochembera isingarasikirwe nerunako rwayo. Kunhuhwirira kwakasarudzika, kwakagadzirwa naJacques Guerlain muna 1921 uye kwakatangwa muna 1925, kunounza pachena kunhuhwirira kwekutanga kusingadzivisikirwe munhoroondo yezvinonhuhwirira uye zvichiri kunhuwa. ready pasi rose nhasi. Kunhuhwirira kunosanganisa intuitive improvisation nehungwaru uye kubudirira kwayo kunobva mukuenzanisa kwakakwana: musangano wekufemerwa kusingaperi nekunhuhwirira kwekuchinja kunobatanidza mweya wezera.

Iyo nyaya yekufemerwa kweiyi ngano isingaperi

Iyo nyaya yemhando yepamusoro Guerlain kubva pakutanga

Shalimar, kufanana nemabasa mazhinji eunyanzvi, akafuridzirwa nenyaya yerudo. Mukutanga kwemakumi maviri ezana ramakore rechimakumi maviri, Jacques Guerlain akatora nyaya yerudo pakati pamambo weMughal Sultanate Shah Jahan naPrincess Mumtaz Mahal muzana ramakore rechigumi nenomwe sechitubu chekukurudzira. Mutongi weIndia akatsaurira gadheni reumambo rekuimba muLahore kune waaida uye akaritumidza kuti "Shalimar", iro muchiSanskrit rinoreva "temberi yerudo". Kusvika parufu runorwadza rwemwanasikana wamambo, mapindu aya aive chapupu chenyaya yavo yerudo.Ipapo mutongi akachemedza musikana wake akavaka mubindu aya mausoleum eTaj Mahal, rakava rimwe reManomwe Anoshamisa eNyika.

"Pefiyumu yakanaka inonhuhwirira inotevedzera kurota kwekutanga."

Jacques Guerlain

Vanilla perfume ine zita rakafuridzirwa neiyo intuition

Nyaya iyi yaive nyaya yakanakisa, asi iyo yega haina kukwana kugadzira pefiyumu, asi isu tichiri kuda kugadzira fomuro kuti tiwane pefiyumu huru. Zvakatora mukana uye kubata kwehunyanzvi kuti Shalimar aone mwenje. Izvi zvakaitika apo nyanzvi yekemisitiri Justin Dupont akaunza ethyl vanillin, imwe yeazvino hunyanzvi hwake, kushamwari yake Jacques Guerlain, uye apa ndipo apo Jacques Guerlain akave nepfungwa ndokudurura madonhwe mashoma emamorekuru aya anonhuwirira mubhodhoro repefiyumu yaJicky. Akaziva here ipapo kuti akanga achangobva kutara mutsara wokutangira kunhuwirira kwokutanga kwokumabvazuva munhau yepefiyumu? Kuumbwa kwekunhuhwirira kwakapedzwa mwedzi yakati wandei mushure mechiitiko ichi, uye magadzirirwo acho anobatanidza vanila inokwezva uye inozorodza ine huwandu hwakawanda hwebergamot uye kutetepa kubata kweiris uye isingawanzo tonka bhinzi inofashukira nekudziya uye kuzvidzora. Pefiyumu iyi yakaumba mukana mutsva munyika yezvinonhuhwirira, sezvisina kumboitika kare pefiyumu yakamboonekwa iine simba renyama rakakwirira kudaro.

Vanilla, iyo inonyanya kukosha mukunhuhwirira kwaGuerlain, yakashandiswa mukunhuhwirira munhoroondo yeGuerlain uye inoramba ichikurudzira mugadziri wezvinonhuhwirira Thierry Wasser nanhasi.

revolutionary innovation

Guerlain akasarudzira iyi inonhuwirira inoshamisa bhodhoro rakakosha rakagadzirirwa iyi perfume nemuzukuru wake Raymond. Flask yepefiyumu, sip yezvakawanda zvakasikwa ine Mughal-yakafuridzirwa motifs uye chiArabic tilted motifs, inomutsa mabheseni emvura eShalimar Gardens. Bhodhoro reShalimar ndiro bhodhoro rekutanga rezvinonhuwira munhoroondo ine chigadziko chekugadzira uye bhodhoro rekutanga rine kapu yemavara yakagadzirwa nelacquered Baccara crystal mumutauro unoramba uri chakavanzika kusvikira nhasi. Ichi chidimbu cheunyanzvi chaizivikanwa seShalimar perfume chakaziviswa paInternational Exhibition of Decorative Arts muParis, iyo yakaitwa muna 1925, makore mana mushure mekusikwa kwekunhuhwirira. Imba yakafunga kumirira kusvika nguva chaiyo yasvika yekuburitsa kunhuhwirira kutsva uku, uye yaive sarudzo ine zvibereko sezvo chiitiko ichi chine mukurumbira chakapa mubairo wekutanga kuna Shalimar kunhuhwirira. Shalimar perfume inoratidzirwa nehunhu hwechakavanzika uye exoticism uye yakasarudzika yeIndia kubata kunoita kuti ive chiratidzo chekunakidzwa kweiyo nguva nenyika yekuMabvazuva, sezvo iri iyo yakanakisa kuratidzwa kwemweya wenguva iyoyo.

Kunyika yengano

Zvinhu zvakasiyana zvakauya pamwechete kuita nyaya yekubudirira kwaShalimar. Nekujekesa fungidziro dzemakumi maviri emhirizhonga akaona kuzvarwa kwekunhuhwirira uku kwakashandura mitemo yezvinonhuhwirira, inonhuhwirira iyi yakagadzira musimboti wemhuri yakabatanidzwa yezvinonhuwira zvekumabvazuva. Sezvo kunhuhwirira kwakunda kuyemurwa nevatengi muUnited States of America, yave sarudzo yakakosha kuvakadzi vazhinji. Parwendo rwekuyambuka Atlantic, mudzimai waRaymond Guerlain akave mumiriri wezvinonhuhwirira sezvo vafambi vekuAmerica vakawira pasi pehupenzi hwekunhuhwirira uye vakamubvunza zvaakanga akapfeka. Kudavirira uku kwaiva kuratidzwa kwekubudirira kunoshamisa kwekunhuhwirira, uko kwakaenderera mberi nekubudirira kwayo uye kwakazadza nyika yose nemashoko ayo anofadza emanzwiro. Shalimar ingano munyika yemazuva ano yekunhuhwirira uye ikozvino ine mukurumbira icon. Zita rekunhuhwirira, iro rine matatu asinganzwisisike - asi akajairika - syllables ane runako rusingarasikirwe nerunako.